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2004-08-11 - 12:57 p.m.

Zacatecas, Part I

When I am in Zacatecas, every other city feels like it's in black and white. I don't know what it is about that town, but it is my favorite city in Mexico, if not the world. (Editorial disclaimer: Of course I saw Armando while I was in Zacatecas. Sometimes I think the whole reason I came down was just to see him, to talk with him one more time, as our breakup was so sudden that there was no time or inclination for the exit interview. I was in Zacatecas for a grand total of twenty minutes before I called him up, after spending all day in a bus and checking into the youth hostel, where the owners actually remembered me from last January, despite the fact that I was there for all of two days before shacking up with Armando. You will see him in a lot of these pictures, and all you should really know is that yes, we spent a great deal of time together, no, we're not back together, and yes, whatever it was inside of me that got broken back in April is at least in some part healed just by seeing him and talking with him.)

I spent part of almost every day in the cafe, ostensibly writing my research paper, but actually just people watching, and making polite conversation (en espaņol!) with Armando's friends, who also came to the cafe every day.

When I wasn't in the cafe, I was on the roof of my hostel, watching the sun set over the Cathedral, and drinking beer or tequila.

Or just walking around town, through the markets, to the Abstract Art Museum (twice), eating out, and raving about Zactecas's charms to my new friends in the hostel. I also spent one Sunday morning making pottery (yes, I wouldn't have thought it possible either), and hosted a nice night of cross-cultural exchange at Armando's house, with Armando's friends and my friends from the hostel. Incidentally, I did not finish my research paper while I was in Zacatecas.

Warning, pottery ahead!

The Teatro Calderon, and the top of Armando's head:

The best modern art installation Armando's ever seen (his pictures make mine seem very boring, all landscapes, with the occasional self portrait, just for a little variety - why can't I take more pictures of pants?):

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